Turning up the boost is one of the easiest and most common ways to increase power in a turbo vehicle. This is especially true in the case of the SRT-4. This comes with a price though, higher boost levels usually require more fuel and sometimes compromise driveability depending on the setup. A stock SRT-4 should be capable of running between 16-18lbs. of boost before requiring further modifications in other areas such as the fuel system.

In simple terms a wastegate is a valve that dictates how much boost the turbo will build by controlling exhaust gases passing through the turbine wheel. The SRT-4 turbo setup is somewhat different to most cars in that it doesn't have an external wastegate, instead a wastegate actuator attached to the turbo/manifold assembly controls a flapper inside the exhaust manifold. There's more to it but that should give you a rough idea of how upgrading the wastegate actuator in your SRT-4 can increase boost.

Once in the vehicle you have a couple of options for running the vacuum lines which will have a great impact on performance and driveability. We will talk about these later on.

Required Tools:
• 10mm & 12mm wrenches
• 10mm & 12mm sockets
• 3" ratchet extension
• Small needle pliers

Remove Upper Heatshield

The first step towards installing any aftermarket actuator is to remove the heatshield covering the entire turbo and exhaust manifold assembly.

You will need to use a combination of 10mm sockets and wrenches to reach the 5 bolts securing the heatshield. (1) There is one bolt on the very top near the firewall, (2) there is another bolt on the extreme right below the actuator and close to the surge valve, (3) there is another bolt behind and below the coil pack, (4) go further left to find another bolt, (5) the last bolt will be located on the back of the heatshield facing the firewall. The following pictures show the location of some of these bolts.

With all the bolts removed you should now be able to remove the heatshield by moving it around and firmly pulling on it. It is not necessary to completely remove the heatshield but I would suggest getting it out of the way for some extra room.

Remove Stock Wastegate Actuator

You are now able to reach the wastegate actuator and its arm. Use your hand to remove the black line going into the wastegate actuator. Use a 12mm socket or wrench to loosen the 2 bolts holding the actuator, now remove the cotter pin using pliers, then remove the bolts completely. You can now remove the wastegate actuator from the car.

Install Aftermarket Wastegate Actuator

Installing your new wastegate actuator is as simple as reversing the steps to remove the stock unit. However, you will have to set a pre-load on the new actuator. Simply pull the flapper on the exhaust manifold all the way towards the wastegate actuator and adjust the arm so that it holds it in that position.

Use a 12mm wrench or socket to tighten the 2 bolts that secure the wastegate actuator. Now slide the black boost line back into the wastegate actuator.

Now slide the upper heatshield back in place and install the 5 bolts using a 12mm socket or wrench.

Notice: If you are running something like a Mopar Stage 2 Wastegate Actuator like the one shown in the pictures above, then you are technically done with the installation. However, if you are installing a unit like the AGP Actuator I would recommend you keep reading to learn how to take full advantage of your new setup.

Routing Vacuum Lines

It is possible to run many aftermarket wastegate actuators such as the Mopar Stage 2 unit without having to modify your vacuum lines. However, in order to gain the most performance we will cover how to run your vacuum lines in the most efficient way. I will cover this VERY soon.

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• December 21, 2008, 9:10 pm - Jimmy Avdic

  You say slide the turbo in and out. For me I had to use a rubber mallet to get it off the manifold and now I cant get the new one to sit flush on the manifold. Any tips?

• July 9, 2008, 10:33 am - Juan Pereda (http://www.snailmotorsports.com)

  David,

  Thanks for the comments. Did your Boomba BOV include 3 different springs? If so, which one did you install? The spring tension will make a difference in it operates. If you plan on sticking with the stock turbo the Boomba BOV will probably be OK. If you go with a modified big wheel turbo like the E1 then I would encourage you to go with a different setup. Either the Mopar blue plate you are running now, the stock surge valve, or an external BOV. Boomba's BOV has been blamed for turbo failure in the past... mainly with PTP's SST. Even with the softest spring it does not allow boost to vent early or quickly enough.

• July 8, 2008, 8:29 pm - David Saenz

  I love the site and all the information you have provided. I recently installed the boomba 3rd gen bov similar to the one you show. However when it releases air it has a slight flutter similar to compressor surge. I was wondering if you experienced this on your setup. My SRT is stage 0 and completely stock. This was going to be my first mod but I have gone back to the mopar blue plate as a precaution. Thanks for your time. P.S. I have spoken to boomba and they say the sound is normal. I am just reluctant to trust a sales dept. Thanks again.

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