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Tutorials and Guides

SRT-4 Mopar Strut Bars Install

Posted by: Juan Pereda

12/26/07

Installing front and rear strut bars or braces should be a very similar process in any SRT-4 (most cars for that matter). There are many strut bar manufacturers out there, the concept is the same. You're installing a bar (hopefully constructed of metal) from the top of one strut to the top of an opposite strut. It's very self explanatory when looking at the bars. You will use all stock hardware during this install.

Required Tools:

13mm socket or wrench
3" ratchet extension
Sharp knife

Optional Tools:

3" socket extension
13mm deep socket

Install Front Strut Bar

Locate both struts. Use a 13mm wrench or socket with a 3" extension to remove the 2 nuts furthest from the fender and closest to the engine.

Line up the 4 holes (2 per side) on the strut bar with the 2 bolts on each strut. Use the same 13mm wrench or socket to secure the strut bar.

Use the 2 studs/bolts on the struts to install the bar

Install Rear Strut Bar

The rear strut bars require a bit more work as it involves trimming some of the trunk carpet. No worries though, it's still a very simple task.

Locate rear both struts. They are located on each side of the trunk just behind the rear seats and under the carpet/padding.

Use a 13mm wrench or deep socket to remove the 2 nuts closest to the inside of the trunk.

You will now have to use your handy knife to cut off some of the excess carpet that covers up the strut. You can either cut a small slit into the carpet and padding to allow the strut bar to pass through, or simply cut the entire piece, your choice. I chose to cut off the excess carpet since it's in the trunk and in a location that is hardly ever seen, just cut in straight even lines.

Just like in the front, line up the 4 holes on the strut bar with the 2 studs on each strut. Use your 13mm deep socket to secure the strut bar.

Rear Mopar strut bar installed

I suggest using a torque wrench to apply 300in. lbs. of torque as specified by the SRT-4 Service Manual.

You are now done. Make sure to check for clearance before slamming the hood on the front strut bar and cut or tuck any excess carpet.

Terry M. says... (http://www.tmtechsupport.com) This is an awesome site! Thanks for keeping it up... I was wondering what turbo upgrade did you go with back then?

J. Peralta says... I love this site. Thank you! Can you guys also put a tutorial of a REAR BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT?

Juan Pereda says... (http://www.snailmotorsports.com) David,
Thanks for the comments. Did your Boomba BOV include 3 different springs? If so, which one did you install? The spring tension will make a difference in it operates. If you plan on sticking with the stock turbo the Boomba BOV will probably be OK. If you go with a modified big wheel turbo like the E1 then I would encourage you to go with a different setup. Either the Mopar blue plate you are running now, the stock surge valve, or an external BOV. Boomba's BOV has been blamed for turbo failure in the past... mainly with PTP's SST. Even with the softest spring it does not allow boost to vent early or quickly enough.

David Saenz says... I love the site and all the information you have provided. I recently installed the boomba 3rd gen bov similar to the one you show. However when it releases air it has a slight flutter similar to compressor surge. I was wondering if you experienced this on your setup. My SRT is stage 0 and completely stock. This was going to be my first mod but I have gone back to the mopar blue plate as a precaution. Thanks for your time. P.S. I have spoken to boomba and they say the sound is normal. I am just reluctant to trust a sales dept. Thanks again.