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Tutorials and Guides

SRT-4 Intercooler Cold-Side Pipe

Posted by: Juan Pereda
08/27/07

This tutorial will show how to replace a Samco intercooler cold pipe with PTP's hard pipe, the process is the same for any pipe both for removal and installation.

    Required Tools:
  • Long Flathead screwdriver
  • 8mm & 10mm socket (1/4") or equivalent
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • RTV sealant (optional)

We begin by removing the stock airbox as in the Cold Air Intake Install so that we can gain access to the throttle body, cold pipe, and intercooler.

Disconnect the sensor and red line by carefully pulling on them, do not use any tools such as pliers or screwdrivers as you may damage the sensor or rubber connectors.

Use an 8mm (stock or screw clamps) socket or screwdriver to loosen the two clamps securing the pipe, one located at the throttle body, the other one located at intercooler just below the PCM. Remove the pipe by starting with either the top or bottom side, whatever you find easier.

Unbolt the two clamps securing the pipe.
Throttle body clamp (top), then intercooler clamp (bottom).
Cold side pipe removed and ready to install new pipe.
PTP, Samco, and stock pipe comparison.

Use some RTV sealant on the rubber grommet piece in which the sensor plugs into. Simply remove it, apply RTV, then reinstall. This will help prevent any small leaks through the grommet.

Install the new pipe. I found it easier to secure the intercooler side first (bottom) then twisting the throttle body section (top) into place. Use a 10mm socket (recommended) or screwdriver to secure all the T-Bolt clamps.

New PTP cold side pipe installed. Sensors and line connected.

I suggest boost leak testing the car while the airbox or intake system is out of the way. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure there is no leaks in the new cold pipe.

Terry M. says... (http://www.tmtechsupport.com)

This is an awesome site! Thanks for keeping it up... I was wondering what turbo upgrade did you go with back then?

J. Peralta says...

I love this site. Thank you! Can you guys also put a tutorial of a REAR BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT?

Juan Pereda says... (http://www.snailmotorsports.com)

David,

Thanks for the comments. Did your Boomba BOV include 3 different springs? If so, which one did you install? The spring tension will make a difference in it operates. If you plan on sticking with the stock turbo the Boomba BOV will probably be OK. If you go with a modified big wheel turbo like the E1 then I would encourage you to go with a different setup. Either the Mopar blue plate you are running now, the stock surge valve, or an external BOV. Boomba's BOV has been blamed for turbo failure in the past... mainly with PTP's SST. Even with the softest spring it does not allow boost to vent early or quickly enough.

David Saenz says...

I love the site and all the information you have provided. I recently installed the boomba 3rd gen bov similar to the one you show. However when it releases air it has a slight flutter similar to compressor surge. I was wondering if you experienced this on your setup. My SRT is stage 0 and completely stock. This was going to be my first mod but I have gone back to the mopar blue plate as a precaution. Thanks for your time. P.S. I have spoken to boomba and they say the sound is normal. I am just reluctant to trust a sales dept. Thanks again.

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