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SRT-4 Front Brake Pads Replacement

Posted by: Juan Pereda

10/19/07

Replacing the front brake pads on your SRT-4 is not a very difficult task that can be accomplished with a few simple hand tools.

Required Tools:

13mm socket or wrench
Large C-Clamp

Start by safely lifting the vehicle and securing it on jack-stands. Then remove the front wheels to gain access to the calipers and pads.

Lift vehicle and remove front wheels to gain access to the brakes

Use a 13mm wrench or socket to remove the to bolts holding the caliper. These two bolts are located behind the caliper closer to the strut and spring, top and bottom of caliper.

Remove top 13mm caliper bolt

Remove bottom 13mm caliper bolt

You can reach access to the brake pads by removing the top cover to the caliper. Slide the old pads out (make note of their position) and ensure the retaining clips remain in place (top & bottom).

Remove caliper cover and gain access to brake pads, then remove old pads

This is when your handy C-Clamp comes in. You will need to compress that brake piston inside the caliper in order to fit the new pads. Remove the brake fluid cap to the reservoir located under the hood. Put one of the old pads back into the caliper and pushing against the piston so that you can push the piston in. Now put your C-Clamp on the old brake pad and back of the caliper and compress. Compress slowly and make sure no fluid leaks out through the top (reservoir).

Compress brake piston so that new pads will fit

Install the new brakes pads in the same way the old pads were removed. Slide the caliper in and secure with the 13mm bolts. Put the cover back on the brake fluid reservoir, install wheels, and lower vehicle. Start the car and pump the brakes a few times until they get stiff then carefully test drive the new pads.

Terry M. says... (http://www.tmtechsupport.com) This is an awesome site! Thanks for keeping it up... I was wondering what turbo upgrade did you go with back then?

J. Peralta says... I love this site. Thank you! Can you guys also put a tutorial of a REAR BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT?

Juan Pereda says... (http://www.snailmotorsports.com) David,
Thanks for the comments. Did your Boomba BOV include 3 different springs? If so, which one did you install? The spring tension will make a difference in it operates. If you plan on sticking with the stock turbo the Boomba BOV will probably be OK. If you go with a modified big wheel turbo like the E1 then I would encourage you to go with a different setup. Either the Mopar blue plate you are running now, the stock surge valve, or an external BOV. Boomba's BOV has been blamed for turbo failure in the past... mainly with PTP's SST. Even with the softest spring it does not allow boost to vent early or quickly enough.

David Saenz says... I love the site and all the information you have provided. I recently installed the boomba 3rd gen bov similar to the one you show. However when it releases air it has a slight flutter similar to compressor surge. I was wondering if you experienced this on your setup. My SRT is stage 0 and completely stock. This was going to be my first mod but I have gone back to the mopar blue plate as a precaution. Thanks for your time. P.S. I have spoken to boomba and they say the sound is normal. I am just reluctant to trust a sales dept. Thanks again.