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Tutorials and Guides

Building a Neon SXT Sleeper

Posted by: Juan Pereda
07/06/07

Mopar enthusiast Jason, aka steelybob, is no stranger to engine swaps on Neons. His first project involved slapping a 2004 SRT-4 engine into a 2002 Neon SE, which he regrettably sold a couple of years ago. The time finally came to build another sleeper. The recipient was a 2003 Neon SXT that Jason was able to locate at an Ohio dealer. With over 144k miles and a perfectly straight body the SXT was the perfect candidate for a new engine and some boost.

Just like its predecessor, this SXT will be powered by a 2004 SRT-4 2.4L Turbo engine which Jason was able to pick up from a Knoxville salvage yard for just over 3000 bucks. Not a bad deal considering the package includes everything to drop in the SRT-4 engine with only slight modifications to the hood and radiator support.

Jason plans on sticking with the stock SXT brakes rather than upgrading to the SRT-4 bigger rotors in an attempt to lower his 60’ track times by eliminating some of rotational mass and running 13” slicks. He will stick to upgraded pads and same size aftermarket rotors while he decides which direction to go. Currently the car has a well balanced setup with a few hints of straight line acceleration. However, should his intentions ever shift towards superior handling the car will be receiving some bigger sway bars and much needed brakes.

"The car actually hooks pretty good with the stock 15 inch tires... once you get going", says Jason. Torque steer has always been minimized by using the stock 2004 SRT-4 transmission that includes a Limited Slip Differential (LSD) unlike the 2003 models. The exhaust gases are vented via 2.5" downpipe and dumped right after the catalytic converter, which Jason tells me isn't too loud and it gives it a nice rumble. Combined with Mopar's Stage1 PCM and AGP wastegate actuator Jason predicts numbers in the neighborhood of 260HP & 300lbs of torque.

This particular engine swap tackled many of the popular myths in regards to dropping an SRT-4 engine in a second generation Neon. Things like the SXT subframe/K-member are believed to not work with the SRT-4 engine. Jason was able to avoid this swap by drilling a new mounting hole for the power steering cooler as it mounts in a different location.

At first glance this SXT offers very subtle hints of being snail powered. The stock SRT-4 intercooler is barely noticeable behind the front grill and the stance is just aggressive enough to be worthy of a second look. The attention to detail combined with incredible craftsmanship makes this thing a bad ass sleeper. So watch out… the next time you run into a blue Neon SXT, it might surprise you with more more than a tired 2.0L under the hood.


 

Questions & Answers:

How can I install Stage Kits on the SRT-4 engine when they require the VIN to be flashed to the PCM?
If you do the swap into a Neon that already has the skim module (keyless entry) you use the Neon's VIN, not the SRT donor's. The SKIM/RKE box (located under the dashboard) holds the key's identity. The original Neon the SKIM box is programmed with teh 2 keys the car came with. Anytime they are in the ignition it verifies this information so that only those keys can start the vehicle.

If you get your hands on a complete donor SRT-4 then you have a couple of options: A) Swap the SRT-4 PCM, SKIM/RKE box, and keys into the Neon body B). Swap only the SRT-4 PCM into the original Neon body, use they Neon keys, and flash the SRT-4 PCM to accept the Neon keys stored in the Neon SKIM/RKE box. This would require the use of a DRBIII or taking the car to a Dodge dealership and have them flash the VIN. You can also send the SRT-4 PCM to Flight Systems and they can flash it.

If you are able to get your hands on a DRBIII then you must get the 4 digit pin number from Dodge. There are the only people who can give you this number and it is not possible to flash without it. Just call your local dealer's service department and give them the last 9 digits of the Neon's VIN, they can then provide you the 4 digit pin. Write down this number and store it in a secure location, you will need it for any future upgrades such as Staged Kits.
Terry M. says... (http://www.tmtechsupport.com)

This is an awesome site! Thanks for keeping it up... I was wondering what turbo upgrade did you go with back then?

J. Peralta says...

I love this site. Thank you! Can you guys also put a tutorial of a REAR BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT?

Juan Pereda says... (http://www.snailmotorsports.com)

David,

Thanks for the comments. Did your Boomba BOV include 3 different springs? If so, which one did you install? The spring tension will make a difference in it operates. If you plan on sticking with the stock turbo the Boomba BOV will probably be OK. If you go with a modified big wheel turbo like the E1 then I would encourage you to go with a different setup. Either the Mopar blue plate you are running now, the stock surge valve, or an external BOV. Boomba's BOV has been blamed for turbo failure in the past... mainly with PTP's SST. Even with the softest spring it does not allow boost to vent early or quickly enough.

David Saenz says...

I love the site and all the information you have provided. I recently installed the boomba 3rd gen bov similar to the one you show. However when it releases air it has a slight flutter similar to compressor surge. I was wondering if you experienced this on your setup. My SRT is stage 0 and completely stock. This was going to be my first mod but I have gone back to the mopar blue plate as a precaution. Thanks for your time. P.S. I have spoken to boomba and they say the sound is normal. I am just reluctant to trust a sales dept. Thanks again.

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